![]() ![]() While this unfortunately begins to exceed a Gigabyte "per hour of content" it does look as transparent to the original as possible. But if I oversimplified it, good 720 rips would still be as complicated as: Same Frame Rate, h.264 8bit, 2500kb at Two-Pass, encoder speed set just to Slow, with all filters set to OFF (if possible). Its also typically stupid to assume you're gunna make a hollywood grade movie look better by inducing "Handbrake's" noise reduction & softening effects what that does is end up with worse detail at longer encode times. So its typically just stoopid to re-encode to 10bit from an 8bit source you're not making it better, ever. My post is about Handbrakes best settings for 720 rips at 8bit from typical Bluray discs. Some might encode to 600MB and some might be 1.5GB. Also know that again, this filesize can change drastically from movie to movie. Calculate the megabytes per minute and then multiply that by the minutes in the movie to get an estimate of the max filesize. This whole RF thing depends from movie to movie, and with Blu-ray release quality differences playing a factor as well.ĭo some previews if the movie and check the filesize for a 30 second preview during a somewhat intense scene or dark scene, and then again for a lighter scene. If you do have these 4GB DVD rips I would try RF20 and if the size looks very good but the quality lost a bit of sharpness, go for RF19 or RF18, as RF18 is what's recommended in the documentation for DVD rips. MKV I prefer to MP4 because at this point it's quite universal and useful to adding subtitle files. If your DVD rips are 4GB, they're worth a reencode, but if they're 700MB-1GB you're not going to get much of a size improvement with reencoding, because it's already lost too much data and sharpness from the original, and the encoding algorithm won't work out as well. Unless you're going to re-use those movies for some special purpose, I feel like RF20 works fine for almost every case unless you're encoding 4k, 1080p or 720p movies off of Blu-ray Remuxes, where in that case you may want to try RF19 for 720p, and RF21 for 4k. I usually stick to x265 10bit and use RF20 on most media. Anyway, the quality combined with the bitrate isn't the best, but it can still be a much better solution than having the original. The audio processing takes actually more time. I understand you would be interested in out-of-the-box ready-made settings, but I don't have the audacity to do that.īut anyway, I found one fast but not perfect solution: instead of Handbrake (but I'm delighted to hear if it's possible in Handbrake) I use StaxRip and Nvidia NVENC HEVC, so it's the GPU that does the work, and after all it might take just 5 minutes to re-encode over an hour of material. But then again, for some people a 1GB film file might be enough, and with HEVC encoding it could still really beat most streams. Unless the source is full-on Blu-ray quality, it would usually be better not to re-encode it at all, if you really want great quality (because encoding takes much time, effort, and it also worsens the quality). But it really depends on your choices anyway. Anyway, so the minimum and sometimes great quality would be 1.5GB–2.5GB per feature film, but since it's not a silver bullet and sometimes fails big time in some material, something like 3.5GB–5.0GB would usually be fine enough. But for example if it's snowing in the scene, you might not get that captured with good quality easily. HEVC has it cons, since it can simplify and basically blur some kind of parts in the picture, while others would be perfect. But the details on how to do that can vary, it's really not easy. I suggest 10-bit (per color channel) HEVC, with at least 2500 kbps quality (but never with constant bitrate, of course), but that's kind of the minimum, but in some scenes you can see it can be very good.
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